2020 Vermont Climbing
Festival Roped Climbing
& Bouldering Competitions

presented by Mammut
SCORECARDS, ROUTE INDEX & RULES
ROPED CLIMBING

With over 770 routes available in the competition, we’ve made it easy for you to keep track and calculate your point total by creating an interactive spreadsheet for you to use.  Simply download the file and open it in your favorite spreadsheet program (Excel, Numbers, Google Sheets, etc…).  For those that prefer a more old school approach, you can download the same information in PDF format.

BOULDERING

With over 900 boulder problems available in the competition, we’ve made it easy for you to keep track and calculate your point total by creating an interactive spreadsheet for you to use.  Simply download the file and open it in your favorite spreadsheet program (Excel, Numbers, Google Sheets, etc…).  For those that prefer a more old school approach, you can download the same information in PDF format.


Those signing up for the bouldering competition will get free access to the GunksApp digital guide during the run of the event.

Welcome to the 2nd Annual Vermont Climber’s Festival Climbing Competition.

Going from September 12th until the 20th we are excited to have you compete for both glory and prizes! This year we have 3 categories of competition, with prizes for 1st place in each category and an honorable mention for 2nd.

The categories for this year are Roped, Bouldering, and Mile-High Club. If you wish to participate in this year’s competition, here’s the scoop!

COMPETITIONS

Climbers compete with individual scoring sheets to amass as many points as they can. The Roped and Bouldering categories will be scored based on the 10 best climbs, while the Mile High counts the vertical distance of all of the routes you climb throughout the week.

Points and vertical are taken from the Route Index provided in the download above.

Difficulty (Roped): A classic climbing competition to determine the toughest schist crimper in the state. For this category there are 4 levels as described below.

Difficulty (Boulder): A hard persons competition to show their feats of strength. For this category there are 3 levels as described below 

Mile-High Club: How many feet of schist can you climb in one week? There are no difficulty categories for this competition as there are long and tall routes of all grades to go around!

Bonus Points: Climbing areas have bonus points based on their approach. Additionally, extra points will be awarded to climbers who diversify their climbing areas and crag locations! Bonus points are awarded once on a per crag basis as shown in the Route Index.

Preamble

The premise of the Vermont Climbing Competition is to climb all throughout Vermont exploring the various crags that our state has to offer. Routes must be climbed clean (with no falls, dabs, or hangs) to be considered for points across the span of a little over a week. Scoring is individual and you are allowed to climb with whomever. This means that you’re not locked into a single partnership over the week. There are multiple strategies to win making this competition as much about planning as it is about pulling hard. 

 

Sportsmanship

Whenever there is a competition there are those who will seek every advantage possible. This can sometimes include bending the rules, or skirting around a loophole. This is not only disrespectful to your fellow climbers, but brings down the competition as a whole. Climb hard, push yourself to your limits, but do so in a way that is genuine to the spirit of the competition.

 

Fellowship

Climbing, like any other individual focused sport, tends to have a certain amount of ego involved paired with a desire to always be doing better than those to which you compare yourself. While time will likely not be the key factor in this competition please be respectful of your fellow climbers who may not have as many days available to climb. Hogging a route, or a whole area is never a good look if you are preventing your fellow climbers from trying a climb that they may not have another chance to try. Be willing to share beta, or whatever else is needed. Most of this follows the guidelines of treat others as you would want to be treated.

 

Divisions

Divisions are based on your best outdoors redpoint level. For example, if you have ever redpointed a 5.11a outside then you are an Advanced Division climber. Do not register Intermediate. You are allowed to climb routes rated both above and below your division category.

Roped Climbing:

    • Recreational have successfully sent nothing harder than 5.9+
    • Intermediate have successfully sent up to 5.10d but not harder
    • Advanced have successfully sent up to 5.12a but not harder
    • Elite have successfully sent equal to or harder than 5.12b

Bouldering:

    • Recreational have successfully sent nothing harder than V3
    • Intermediate have successfully sent up to V5 but not harder
    • Advanced have successfully sent equal to, or harder than V6+

 

Logistics

All climbers are considered solo with individual points. This means that you can climb with anyone, of any skill level, provided that they know how to belay. Freesoloing does not count for points, and routes may not be reclimbed for additional points. 

To receive points, climbers must cleanly lead the route. Pre hung gear or draws are not allowed, and are not considered a clean lead. Top-roping is not allowed. 

To receive vertical distance the route may be climbed as follower, leader, or on top rope.

LEAD – A successful “lead” is starting at the bottom, with no toprope above, clipping gear along the way, and arriving at the anchors with no FALLS, no HANGS, and no PULLING ON GEAR. 

If you fall, hang, or grab gear you are allowed to lower down to the ground and climb back up to your high point in “yo-yo” style, then continue on to the anchors. Belayers must not take the weight of the leader at any point. 

Stick-clipping up to the second bolt is allowed, but nothing above.

 

Check-in

The night before the competition starts climbers that have registered for the competition will be sent an email with the finalized rules and a score card mark their climbs down on. These will be submitted at the end of the week to competition@vermontclimbingfestival.com

 

Scoring

Write legibly or your scoring may be incorrect. X out the box next to your ascent and the relevant tick marks. 

Tick Marks – Each climb will be given a baseline score. The tick marks will add additional points to the route score. For a multi pitch climb to count EVERY pitch must be led sequentially by the same person. This means no swapping leads, and no coming back another day to do the other pitches. An extra point will be awarded if you flash the route.

Flashing a route means that you climb it cleanly on your first try. It does not count as a flash if you have ever climbed on that route before.

Redpoint = +0  Flash/Onsight = +1 

Bonus Points – Each climbing area will give you one time Area Points based on a variety of factors. Additionally for each area where you lead climb (beyond one area), you will be awarded extra Adventure points that can be applied to your roped climbing score. You must complete a climb at any of the crags in that area to earn the extra points.

    • See the Table in the Scorecard that shows the Areas and their respective Area Points
    • 1 Area: Area Points awarded once (i.e. if you lead climb at Bog Wall and Bolton Dome, you get 1 Area Point total because those crags are in the same area)
    • 2 Areas or More: Area Points plus Adventure Points for each additional area visited (i.e. if you lead climb at the Bog Wall and 82 Crag and Spice Mountain, you get 1 Area Point for Bog Wall and 3 Area Points for 82 Crag and 6 for Spice Mountain, plus 10 Adventure Points for being adventurous beyond one area!

 

Safety

Some teams may do minimal trad lines, while others may do strictly trad lines. The rules apply to either approach. Our rules are simple: climb responsibly. This is a community event, not your personal days of soloing with a rope at the crag. Don’t climb recklessly above others, and place enough protection to avoid danger. Remember that climbing is inherently dangerous. The safety of this competition is up to you and your partner. CRAG-VT is not responsible for your safety, climbing gear, or the verification of any fixed protection.